Why must history repeat itself?

A chance to celebrate Dean Corey's 75th birthday in Spain was planned and as France’s

infection rates rose, the birthday celebrants decided to play it safe and not attend. Our numbers were abating so we proceeded with the celebration on our own. It gave us the opportunity to revisit Barcelona and the environs while we go through our rolodex of countries for our next residence.

Landing in Barcelona, our travels took us from the North of Catalonia, Cadaques through Figueres, Castellfollit de la Roca, Girona, Pals, Begur, criss crossing the Garrotxa Volcanic Park to Barcelona, Montserrat, Tarragona, Tortosa down to the Delta de l'Ebre returning to Barcelona for our journey home.

There are 17 autonomous communities that make up Spain, Catalonia being one of them. The Catalonian flag is represented with 4 red stripes alternating with 5 yellow stripes. Legend states: Ramon Berenguer II, Count of Barcelona, dying from battle wounds in 1082 dragged his bloodied fingers across his yellow shield creating the flag.

Barcelona

Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia spills onto a space between the mountains and the sea easily creating its own unique under current. Barcelona has many architects but none so outrageously fantastical as Gaudi. He designed many of Barcelona's confectionary creations but none as monumental as Sagrada Familia Basilica. It is a confetti covered, symbolic lollipop, highlighting God's glory.

Started in 1882 with a planned 2026 completion on the 100th anniversary of Gaudi's death. This jaw jaw dropping masterpiece is the most famous unfinished building in the world.

Construction delays guarantee years of work before completion. Wholly financed by visitors, each of us can imagine we have paid for at least one square inch of the structure. There has been progress since my last visit exactly 11 years ago so perhaps I have 2 square inches.

If you are craving squid, octopus, jamon iberico, tortilla espanol, or any cuisine Catalonian, head to world famous La Boqueira Market. Something for everyone.

My eyes were drawn to the street tile ornamentations a-fixed to the buildings in the narrow lanes of Barcelona's old city.

Torre Glòries-the London Gherkin copy, jazz club nightlife, Roman ruins popping up inside courtyards, meld old, new and in between.

Gaudi's teacher designed the beautiful Palau de la Musica Catalana.

The historical contrasts of the current invasion and Catalonia's past made us more sensitive to Spain's own tumultuous history. Empty burned out buildings still remain in the countryside pock marked with bullet ridden walls. An air raid shelter for children in a Barcelona church was continuously bombed for 3 hours by Fascist Italy until it was leveled in 1938.

Barcelona war damage.

During our trip, Russia invaded Ukraine and at times it felt inappropriate to be enjoying Spain’s beautiful and varied Catalonian vistas while an egotistical bully threatened democracy, killing innocents and pillaged the cities and roadways of Ukraine. But then we learned about the similarities of Putin and Spain's own egotistical bully, Francisco Franco.

From 1936-1939 Spain's Civil War between the Republicans ( the legitimately elected government) and the Nationalists (supported by the Catholic Church, monarchy and landowners) was an opportunity for Francisco Franco to gain power under the Nationalists.

20,000 - 50,000 people are estimated to have been killed, hard to estimate with so many in mass graves. Franco's partnership with Fascist Italy and Nazi Germany "cleansed" the population and only now is Spain starting the slow process of reckoning with its past which some call "collective insanity" as people didn't talk about the atrocities until recently. Why does history repeat itself?

Ukraine Demonstrations in Barcelona

20 years after the Civil War ended Spain was bankrupt in 1959. The economy, politics, business ran on corruption, fraud and theft. The education system was purged and set back generations, culture was extinguished, regional languages were repressed.

For artists, Hemingway, Picasso, Calder, Lorca, Miro, their writing and art were greatly influenced by the Spanish war years. As a writer Hemingway followed the International Brigade of Foreigners who arrived to participate in the Civil War similar to what is happening in Ukraine where 20,000 foreigners have joined an international legion. Catalonia's desire for independence is another blog.

Cadaques

Mention elBulli, "the most imaginative generator of haute cuisine on the planet" according to the Guardian and food lovers listen. When elBulli closed, 3 of the top chefs, Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch opened up Compartir in Cadaques. Watching a video filmed with Chef Anthony Bourdain's, weeks before his suicide, we booked Compartir in honor of Bourdain and elBulli's legacy.

Mention the name Cadaques to people and those who know it embrace it like their most favorite Auntie exclaiming their love and fidelity to its existence. Dali was influenced by Cadaques and his influence is felt in Cadaques close to his birthplace, Figueres.

Hello Dali

I'm not a Dali surrealist fan but the art he created here is pretty cool.

Pals

Rice was introduced to Spain by the Arabs between the 8th and 10th centuries. We were surprised to see so many rice fields in Spain and to learn that the city of Pals grows 7 different types of rice since the 15th century.

Castellfollit de la Roca

On the way back from the Garrotxa Volcanic Park we came to the floating city of Castellfollit de la Roca. It floats in air on Basalt cliffs at the meeting point of 2 rivers.

Montserrat

In the year 880, 4,000 feet above sea level a group of shepherd children saw a bright light descend from the sky and found La Moreneta (Black Virgin Mary) in a cave. She had been misplaced in a cave for 200 years to protect her against invading forces, until someone found her again. She wasn't forgotten, no one remembered where they had hid her. The Benedictine monks built a small chapel for her high in the sky happy to be reunited.

The chapel became several chapels, an abbey and now it's a monastery. La Moreneta was again saved when Napoleon's troops came in 1812 and destroyed the abbey. She is Catalonia's patroness since 1881. The original statue was replaced in 1100 with the present one. Montserrat is the second pilgrimage spot in Spain after Santiago de Compostela.

80 monks live and worship here. It's pretty amazing to see the Monastery built into the mountains complete with boys choir, gift shop, store, hotel, restaurant, Benedictine monk retreat and a funicular.

Tarragona

Ferreres Aqueduct built by Emperor Augustus' aqueduct builders 2,000 years ago. The geographic diversity and geological challenges that Spain presents for construction is incredible. I am baffled by the amount of stone Spain has to contend with when it comes to building, most anything.

World Heritage Site, Tarragona was the oldest Roman settlement in Iberia and a wealthy port city. Excavated ruins and interactive displays are exhibited throughout highlighting the Circus, the Forum and the Amphitheater right next to the Mediterranean Sea. It is a beautiful city.

The human castles are a traditional Tarragona competition representing solidarity and team spirit. The Castellers are a team of people who climb on each other's shoulders to form a human tower (castle). They climb barefoot for balance, feel and comfort to minimize injuries to team mates, wearing a sash that offers a foothold or handhold. The goal is to have as smooth an assembly and disassembly in succession while creating the castle. At the highest level stands a child holding up one hand. Our visit was out of season to see the real Castellers.

Tarragona Castellers Statue

Carnival brought everyone out in costume. The majority seemed to be grown men walking around in onesies pajamas portraying various animals as well as some excellent displays of costume creativity. The parade (delayed for 2 years) was welcomed by all of Tarragona, even some extinct dinosaurs put in an appearance.

What a contrast, Bingo next to a 2,000 year old Roman Amphitheater.

Delta de l'Ebre

Delta de l'Ebre, also a major rice grower, is more importantly one of Western Europe's major wetlands home to 330 bird species. Walking and cycle paths dot the Garxal area which offers a reed bed and grassland sanctuary for bird colonies throughout the year. During our visit we were able to view the flamingos from a distance.

The Ebro River, longest in Spain, meets the Mediterranean Sea forming salt beds, sandy beach and marshlands making it a very tasty, fun place if you are a bird. Like Club Bird which we couldn't get in without our beads or bird credentials.

Begur

The charm of Begur was perhaps the favorite stop on our trip. It has mostly to do with the people we met at Hotel AiguaClara where we stayed, hosts and guests. Walks on the nearby beaches, meaningful conversations, a vacationing couple from Ukraine the day their country was attacked and the humanity of nice people in the world.

Watch out Gaudi!

Youssef got a chance to build another of his famous rock towers showing his Gaudi spirit.

Barcelona in 9 boxes